Waterfalls and broken toes!

The manager of Kapu, John is a great guy, originally from Connecticut, but has been living in one of the most beautiful places on earth for about 20 years. If I sound jealous I am!
He told us if we walked up the road a little way we would come to a trail where we would find some small waterfalls and then come to a 110 ft fall. He wasn't sure if it would be running as we are at the end of dry season, we figured what the hell and set off.
Awesome, extraordinary, beautiful, words that don't really capture all that we saw. We dunked ourselves in pools of crystal clear river water, put our heads under rapidly running water, stared up at huge trees and just had a fabulous time.











This is the 110 footer! Tried to swim under it, felt like hail!


Ok, must admit to a little stupidity, we did this in bathing suits and flip flops. On the way down both Rita and Sean thought they broke a toe or two. I was fairly unscathed with just a bruised soul, it was worth it!!

Location:Matapalo, Costa Rica

Co$ta Rica

I've heard many things about Costa Rica, most of them very good. One of the downsides is how expensive it is. If you are just traveling for a week or two, it's one thing but when you are on the go for months it can be cost prohibitive. That said, it is beautiful country.
We crossed over the border and headed over to the west coast. We stayed the first night at Playa Coco, really an uneventful town. At about this time in the trip, Sean realized he had to head home soon. He really wanted to see the Peninsula de Oso, so we beat feet all the way to the south of CR.
On the drive down, we went over the Cerro de Muerte or "mountain of death". The road takes up about 12,000 ft up into the cloud forest. All very gorgeous, some of the ferns are as big as the car! Its a very twisty road and when you are in the clouds you can't see two feet in front of the car.
We spent the night in San Isidro, which was actually the cheapest place we have stayed all trip. Go figure.
Our 1st stop on the peninsula was Puerto Jimenez, which is a rather seedy fishing town. We decided to head further down the peninsula. Interesting road. Once out of town it becomes dirt and rock, very hard on the shocks and bones! We forded streams and crossed bridges that were put together with rebar and metal plates.


We finally found the turn off to Matapalo and bounced along for another 20 minutes or so.
As we got closer to the ocean, a vehicle was stopped in the road in front of us. The people were out of the car and staring into the trees, hmmm. Of course we got out to see what was going on. Monkeys!!!! So cool.





The peninsula is thick jungle that doesn't stop til it hits the ocean. We continued on until the end of the road and suddenly the ocean was right in front of us. Wow! We found a place to stay right there. The guesthouse is called Kapu, which in the native language mean sweet spot. Couldn't be a more accurate description. In the jungle right on the beach!
And all you surfers, one of the best point breaks ever!










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Location:Costa Rica

Granada

After flying through the trees, we headed into Granada. Another wonderful colonial city, nestled on the banks of Lago de Nicaragua. We spent 2 days walking around taking in the sites and meeting all sorts of cool people. Sean and I ended up having a great meal with a really nice couple from Wales. One of the things I like so much about my travels are the unique and interesting people we have met on the road. Old, young, rich, poor, and from all points of the globe. Always ready to share a story or advice on where to go next. Some of the best places we have stayed is because another traveler told us about it!
I'm going to try to keep this short as I'm trying to catch up with myself.








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Location:Granada, Nicaraqua

Flying between trees

One of the people that we met at the treehouse, is a wonderful young lady named Katrina. She hails from Alaska and was at the treehouse volunteering. We had been telling her we wanted to go zip lining and she asked if she could join us. But, of course! Then, Chris and Lily, also said they wanted to come. Also really nice folks, with a rather bittersweet story. Lily is originally from Russia, she has no family there or other ties and has been traveling the world. I think to find her place. She met Chris, a Canadian, in Thialand and they fell in love. Unfortunately, as immigration laws are these days, Lily can't enter Cananda, even though they are planning to get married. So as of right now, they travel together for 6 months, then Chris goes home to work and Lily keeps traveling. Great way to see the world but rather tiring after awhile. Hopefully, they can get things worked out soon.
Off the 6 of us went to fly between trees! Woohoo! We got all harnessed up, with helmets and gloves. Our 3 wonderful guided gave us the run through and we found ourselves on the first platform. A little disconcerting but so much fun to be sliding down a wire, high up in the trees. Rita got a little nervous on the second run, so one of the guides stayed with her for the rest of the runs, they were so sweet and nicknamed her "super momma". If you wanted to you could go upside down, not my favorite but everyone else liked it. You could also do "superman" with one of the guides along to stop you at the end. That was a blast.














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Location:Nicaragua

Living in trees, Part 2

Don't know what happened to my last post, lost half of it! So here we go again!
As you walk up the mountain, the first structure you come to is the living quarters, built up on stilts. There is one big dorm room and 6 private rooms, the composting toilet is just outside. No running water here, except for the very cold showers. Then up another steep climb to the building with the kitchen and bar area, this is also where the showers are. Just up above that is Fred and Chad's house. If I lived there for a month I'd be skinny again!
The 1st night there, Sean wasn't feeling so well and retired early, not Rita and I. Us, old broads, hung out with the younger set, drinking rum and coke and playing card games (no money involved). By the end of the evening, we were rather drunk, can you imagine. Rita and I tried to make it down the mountain but after a few steps Rita fell and took me with her, no major damage but it was clear she wasn't going down the hill by herself. We decided to put her in a hammock and let her sleep it off. Once we got her in we were afraid she would fall out. Oh what to do! Then along come Adam, a strapping and handsome young man, he picked Rita up, put her on his back and piggybacked her down the mountain. It was all very amusing and we laughed all the way down.
We were woken up the next morning by the sound of howler monkeys playing in the trees, it's really amazing how much noise those little guys make. When we got up to the kitchen for coffee, Fred congratulated Rita on getting a healthy, young man to carry her to her room. Ah, life is good!


Yes, that's the path!









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Location:Mambasa Volcano, Nicaragua

Living in trees

After we left Thelma, we headed down to Granada. It's a wonderful colonial city just south of Managua. We parked the car and wandered around looking for a place to stay. At one hotel I found a brochure for a hostel up on the side of the Mombasa volcano. We decided to check it out.
After driving up and down the road for a while, we ended up at a place where they do zip line tours. They sent a nice young man to lead us to the "treehouse", we told them we would be back in a day or two to go zip lining. Can't remember our guide's name, thats what happens when you are 2 weeks behind on posts! Anyway, he directed us off the road, on to a dirt track, over a field and a final sharp turn to the right. Through the gates we went and pulled into a small parking lot. "Where is the hostel?" " Up there" "Up there?!?" "Si" He wasn't kidding, the fricking place was on the side of the mountain, up a very steep climb, at altitude. Oh my goodness, when we finally arrived at the top non of us could catch our breath.






Fred, from San Fran. and his business partner, Chad, from Texas have built
this cool place place in amongst the jungle, literally on the side of the mountain. The views are spectacular! They started building last year and opened for business in Nov., lots of work still to be done, but they are doing a great job.
Thank goodness they sent a couple of guys back down to help us with our packs! Soon enough we were settled in and enjoying the view and beers at the bar and kitchen area.






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Location:Granada, Nicaragua

Laguna de Apoyo

The day before we left Thelma's, the four of us, Thelma included, drove over to Laguna de Apoyo. The lagoon is a crater lake about halfway between Vulcan Masaya and Vulcan Mombacho. We stood at a Mirador(overlook) and admired not only the views but the Nicaraguan from all walks of life who come and enjoy a Sunday afternoon at the lagoon.





We headed back to Thelma's to watch the Super Bowl. (I really am behind on my blogging!) The next morning we bade a fond farewell to Thelma and her staff and headed to Granada.
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Location:Nicaragua

Softball

The next night in Managua, Bea invited us to go and watch her softball game. Actually, she asked us not to come but we did anyway. Her team was undefeated last year, this year not so much.
Sean decided not to go, so Rita and I caught a ride with Marcelino. Neither one of us know what to expect. Bea had told me that their league had to pay a lot to play on the field but that still didn't prepare us for what we found. Bea's league plays on a very professional field complete with lights and a digital score board. Also......wait for this....waiter service to the spectators!!! The beers and rum and cokes very in good supply.
The name of Bea's team is the Matracas, which is the name of a noise maker. Everyone has one of them so the crowd was wild and noisy. Tons of fun was had.





Unfortunately, Bea's team lost which meant they were out of the playoffs. So off to the bar we went to commiserate. Oops, almost forgot to talk about the near riot. Fans from the other team were talking sh.. about our players and things got a little heated after the game. I'm not sure if punches were actually throw but it was a big mess and the other team was afraid to leave the field. I did see a bat being wielded around. Things finally settled down and we headed off. Talk about Drama!





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Location:Managua, Nicaragua

To Thelma's house we go

My dear friend Alessandra Hurtado is from Nicaragua, though she has spent most of her life in the States. She had invited me to go to Nicaragua with her last September and stay with her mom, who has a house in Managua. I stayed with them for a week and had a great time, think that's when I started to fall in love with Nicaragua.
Thelma, Alessandra' s mom, retired back to Nicaragua about 3 years ago with her husband. They were planning to live out the rest of their lives in the land of their birth. Unfortunately, he died about 6 months after they moved. Something about best laid plans comes to mind!
Thelma stayed on and lives in a beautiful house, just down the road from the American Ambassador's house. Her husband was a collector of art works from all over the world and the house is like a museum. Thelma has two full time maids to help her keep it up. They are the most wonderful ladies and great cooks also.
I had told Thelma I would be coming back to Nicaragua in the spring with a couple of friends and she said to come visit her when we arrived.
At this point in our travels it had become evident that we needed brakes, so we arrived at Thelma's door with a request for help in finding a mechanic. She soon sent Sean off with her driver, Alejandro and Rita and I settled in for the afternoon. Which turned into a 3 day stay! Lazing by the pool and having Juanita cook for us, what bliss!
When I was down in Sept. I had met some fabulous Nicas (you know who you are). I called them from Thelma's and arrangements were made to come pick us up and take us out on the town. Bea showed up in her new Toyota SUV (very nice), told us everyone had rearranged their Friday night plans and would meet us at a local bar. Rita, Sean and I all looked at one another and said " it's Friday", Rita thought it was Tuesday, me Thursday and Sean said he had no idea what day it was! Such is life on the road!





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Location:Managua, Nicaragua

Leon

After leaving the "love hotel" we headed to Leon. As we headed toward Vulcan Momotomba, we saw more and more oxen and horse drawn carts. In Nicaragua you see both the old and the new almost everywhere you look.
Leon was the original capital of Nicaragua, Managua became the capitol in 1857. It was also the ecclesiastical center for Nicaragua and Costa Rica. The cathedral in Leon is the largest in Central America.




Leon has also been very political and most of the town fought in the revolution against Samoza, the dictator. The wall of Leon are decorated with murals that depict those and other turbulent times.


We spent a few hours walking around and then headed west to the coast. You may have notice, we, especially Rita and I, love the beach! We headed for Ponaloya but instead stayed just south of there at Las Pinates. A very laid back community, with long black sand beaches and an undertow that will carry you away if you are not careful. After I spent a vigorous half hour playing in the waves Rita and Sean asked me to leave them my pin number before I went in again. Hmmm, they just want me for my money!
Spent a wonderful 2 days there, then it was off to Managua to visit friends of mine and get some work done on the car.





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Location:Leon, Nicaragua

Auto-Hotel

Ah yes, the auto-hotels or as some call them the love hotels. They are all over Mexico and Central America. It's not considered a bad thing here and most of them are very clean, comfortable and safe. In countries where most people live with their families, til they get married, then move in with the groom's family, there needs to be somewhere to go and of course, some where to take the mistress! You can stay for three hour or all night. Travelers stay also, mainly because they are safe and abundant.
So the 3 of us ended up at one. Should of seen the looks we got when we asked for one room!
When we got there there was a table full of Nica's playing cards and drinking Rum. This was not one of the cleanest auto-hotels. Empty bottles, cigarette butts and chicklet boxes littered the porch outside the rooms. But the people were very friendly and the room and sheets were clean. As we got our stuff out of the car, the mamasita ushered the player away and had her daughter tidy up. That consisted of brushing a few bottles off the porch and into the dirt out front. Sean looked over and said under his breath " oh so that's where that goes" Classic.
We sat on the porch and drank a few beers and talked to some of the folks there. I really like the Nica people, as a rule they are outgoing and friendly. Most of the Nica's we talked to that night spoke some English, even though only one had been to the States. We told them of our experience in Honduras and they all nodded and said it came as no surprise. One very large drunk young man came over to chat and kept asking why we where in one room. After a few people tried to get him to go, Rita finally got up and said " Herbert, it' s time to go" he finally got the message and was lead off by friends. He must of come back later and passed out in the court yard, cause Rita almost tripped over him on the way to get something out of the car.
The next morning Rita and I sat outside and had our coffee, while the same girl again swept everything into the dirt and left it there. It was all very funny and we couldn't stop laughing! We packed up a little while after that and headed down the road to Leon.
The picture below is the volcano on the way to Leon, it's called Momtombo. And yes, it is active.





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Location:Nicaragua

Crossing over

Time to head out of El Salvador and brave the border into Honduras. We headed south early and hit the border at around noon. Thinking maybe a bigger border crossing would not give us a hard time about the registration, ha! As we got to the border, we were again mobbed by men wanting to help us. We said " no nessicito" and kept going. No problem on the El Salvador side, so into Honduras we bravely went. This is where thing went south, pun intended. Getting ourselves in was easy, just another stamp on the passport. Then we got to the car; "where is the registration", "we don't have or need one", "oh yes you do". We need to get to Nicaragua! It took us about 3 hours of haggling, pleading and going from one office to another and paying $150 US dollars. We were then allowed to enter Honduras..... for 7 hours. Good thing the border to Nicaragua is only 150 km down the road.
Unfortunately, there are police stops every 30 km. When we got to the first one, we realized Sean' s license was missing, has his passport and money but no license. That took a little palm greasing and me hopping into the driver' s seat. We got stopped 3 more times, after giving us a hard time about not having a "triangle" (the thing you put on the road if you break down), trying to tell me my license was expired, because we put the month before the day, which is the opposite from here, a little more palm greasing took place. You can imagine how hard this was to figure out with our limited knowledge of Spanish. By this time it's getting late and dark and we still have another crossing. To the border we go!
Viva Nicaragua!! Getting out of Honduras was simple, thank goodness and getting into Nicaragua even easier. No registration needed here, just the title. We headed into the nearest town, as it's now dark, not so good. Found ourselves a "auto-hotel" and that, my friends, is a story for the next blog!


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Location:Honduras

Over the mountains

So where was I, oh yeah, getting kicked out of Honduras. As you can imagine we were pretty bummed, we were really excited about visiting the Copan ruins. But it was not to be. Where to go next? At some point we will need to figure out how to get into Honduras, but we had had enough at that point so headed to El Salvador instead.
No problem crossing into El Salvador, quick stamp on the passport and we were in!
I wasn't all that enthused about going to El Salvador, as I had heard the was some issues going on there. I'm so glad we did, what a beautiful country and people! We drove up over the mountains and down to the coast. The views are amazing, unfortunately there is no where to stop and take picture. It's another of those narrow, curvy roads and you would be taking your life in your hands if you stopped. As we headed out of the mountain we could see the blue of the pacific up ahead of us. Drove down the road a few kilometers until we found a small surfing town, figured we'd stop for a night, we stayed for three.
El Tunco is the name of the town and it really is all about the beach, surfing and volleyball. They were having a volleyball tourney there, so we got to watch all sorts of people playing, some pretty darn good.





The beach is covered in black volcanic sand and a large rock formation sits off the beach. All very pretty and relaxing. We hung out in hammocks, read, did our laundry in a cooler in the shower and talked to some great people. Talked to one young girl, who said it was great to see older people traveling. Wasn't sure if I wanted to laugh or strangle her. Not a bad way to spend a few days!











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Location:El Salvador

Rejected

Rejected!
After two days in Antigua, we decided to head to the Mayan ruins at Copan, Honduras. Good luck with that!
First, we had to find our way though or around Guatemala City. The maps we have really aren't that helpful. There probably is a way around but we didn't find it. Into the city we went! Seemed to be doing okay til the road split and we found ourselves right in the thick of town. Again, people here are friendly and helpful, so after a few stops to ask directions, we emerged on the other side of the city. Phew!
Then we got to the border! No problem getting out of Guatemala, passports stamped, car papers stamped. Passports stamped to get into Honduras, final stop, getting the car in. I waited with the car and Rita and Sean headed to the office, came back 20 minutes later and said the car was not allowed in, we could enter but not the car.
Rita tags are from Florida but it's no longer registered there as she has lived in Mexico for 3 years and her car is tied in with her Mexican residency papers. All legal in Mexico, wasn't a problem in Guatemala, but the custom guy in Honduras said no, without a registration we can't drive in. Said we could try at the crossing in Agua Caliente, as it was bigger and they would probably let us in. Huh! If they will why wont you?!? Nothing could change his mind, so we had to get stamped out of Honduras and back into Guatemala. Good thing they didn't have problem with the car or we have been stuck in no mans land!
Now it's getting late and we are low on gas, then we get stopped by the police! No big deal, just wanted to our papers. Drove down the road a few more kilometer and found a gas station and a hotel for the night. Oh, what a day!


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Location:Guatemala