Thursday, 27 January 2011

Lago de Atitlan

It is said that Lago de Atitlan is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, I can believe it.


On the south side rise three huge volcanos, Atitlan, San Pedro and Toliman. Toliman and Atitlan are still active but haven't erupted in recent memory.
We left Panajachel and headed around the lake to Atitlan Santiago. Atitlan Santiago is a much less touristy town. Most of the ladies and some of the men still wear the traditional garland go about life in much the same way their parents and grandparents did. Unfortunately, that way of life seems to be coming to an end.
Our destination was a Pasada on the far side of town, we drove the windy roads thru town, asking directions as we went. Everyone was very helpful but we still got turn around. Finally we asked a tuktuk (small 3 wheel taxi)driver to show us the way.
Posada de Santiago has been in existence for about 20 years and has been lovingly looked after ever since. The property rises up a hill from the lake and has stone cabanas of various sizes, scattered around. Each with private baths and fireplaces, bliss!






We spent two days there, relaxing by the pool and enjoying the natural beauty surrounding us. Many thanks to my friend, Sarah Gammage, for recommending it to us!
Yesterday we packed up and headed out, more on that later. It's time to get off my butt and explore Antigua!
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Location:Guatemala

Monday, 24 January 2011

Onward

Driving in Mexico can be tricky but in Guatemala it can be down right dangerous. As in Mexico, on the two lane roads, the slower traffic moves toward the shoulder and let's the faster traffic pass in the middle. The slower traffic, coming the other way also moves toward the shoulder, giving you room to pass. You still have worry about the faster traffic coming the other way and the guy behind you, who is expecting you to pass. You have to be bold or all is lost. It's sort of a combination of chicken and bumper cars.
Our first destination in Guatemala is Lago de Atitlan, specifically the town of Panajachel. There are two different roads to take, either the GA1 or the GA2. One of them runs more to the north thru the mountains, the other more southerly and said to be more straight and flat. We decided to go the southern route, even though Panjachel is on the north coast of the lake. Off we head with Sean driving and Rita and I giving encouragement as much as possible. " Go now", " watch out for that truck", " oh, s...", "go,go,go". Very much interactive driving! Poor Sean!
The whole trip took a lot longer than anticipated and it


was getting dark as we approached the south side of the lake. Oh, what to do? We decided to head for the next town, a place called St. Lucas. As we drove into the zocalo(town square), we realized that not many gringos came here. No worries, the folks we talked to were very friendly and we soon found a hotel for the night. 170 quetzals, which is about 20 dollars, for all three of us. A quick dinner from a roadside vendor and we were done for the night.
We piled in to the car the next morning and headed to Pana. Beautiful drive over the mountains around the lake. We dropped down into the town midmorning, found a place for breakfast right on the water. Ate while we watched the mist burn off the lake. Found the Hotel Jere to stay in, as Rita says it has character. Unfortunately, not the advertised hot water! The town is very touristy but it's been fun exploring the streets and checking out all the people. They come from every walk of life here, Guatemalan men and women in traditional dress, folks from Europe, the States, Mexico, old, young and everything in between. Great people watching! Found a bar on the main strip, where we watched the crowds go by and the Packers beat the Bears on satellite tv.





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Location:Guatemala

Saturday, 22 January 2011

The adventure begins

Finally got some time and a good Internet connection, so time to start blogging. This blog is really a travel log and my thoughts about traveling thought Central America with two good friends.
I arrived in Mexico 2 weeks ago and met up with Rita and Sean. Rita has lived in Mexico for the past 3 years and Sean hails from Seattle. I met them both when I lived in Huatulco, Mexico last year. Couldn't ask for 2 better people to travel with. It took us awhile to leave Mexico, partly because I wanted to see some of the people I met last year and to get Rita's paperwork straight. She is a resident of Mexico and needed to get her papers renewed so she can get back in when our travels are over.
Finally all the paperwork was done, 5 trips to the Immigration Office!, and we're off.
We headed out of Huatulco at about 11:45am on Jan. 20th, destination Guatemala. We were hoping to make it to the border that evening but Mexican roads aren't the fastest. Curvy and narrow, you can get stuck behind a bus or truck until you get the nerve to pass. No matter, it's a beautiful drive. As we left the desert beauty of Oaxaca, we passed into the lush areas of Chiapas. We drove past huge flowering trees, cattle and horses grazing on the road side, majestic rock formations and even a few shrimp farms.
If we had pushed on to the border we would have been driving in the dark. Never a good idea, as you never know what's in the road around the next corner; cow, rock or even a bridge out. We decided to stop at Playa Arista and arrived just in time to watch the sun set over the Pacific. Gorgeous! We spent the night at Jose's campground. Jose's is a colorful gent from Canada, who has been in Mexico for many years. He runs a great place with cabanas and campsites. The beers are cold and the bats keep the bugs down.
Up bright and early the next morning, my traveling companions are early risers, ugh. Stopped at a roadside stand for some breakfast, not the best. Usually, you can find great inexpensive fare on the road, but not where we stopped. Oh well! We also stopped at a Wal-mart, of all places, to stock up on some supplies.
Then we got to the border! Wow! As we got closer, all sort of people tried to get us to let them help us across, you just have to ignore them and keep going. Getting out of Mexico isn't a problem. Take your passport to the office and they stamp you goodbye. Rita and I went in while Sean watched the car, we were not charged a departure fee. When it was Sean's turn, they charged him. He said "you didn't charge my friends", the guy just shrugged and took his money, go figure! Now into Guatemala, again, all sorts of people telling us what to do. We got a young man, named Joel, to help us, cause it's confusing. First, he told us where to get our passports stamped and then while Sean stayed with the car, he took us to get the car cleared though. Rita and I followed him down a side street to a little office, where a man told us he could sell us a pass all the way to Costa Rica. Hmmmm, no official things on the walls, no official uniform on him! Rita said no way and we are out of there. Joel tried to get us to go back, but Rita, all of 5'2 and 110 soaking wet, got up in his face and told him off. He then took us to the right place. All told we were there about an hour. As we headed into Guatemala, it was high fives all around!!











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Location:Panajachel, Guatemala